1. I have been on your program for about 5 months. People are saying that it looks as if my hair got longer. But it looks the same to me. I think it may have been because all these people saw me after my touch up. when I had been wearing my hair up for two months. But anyway how do you measure your hair? Do you do it yourself?

I first measure it by the new growth. Is my hair needing to be retouched after several months then I know it is growing. If I am getting the length depends on whether or not the hair is breaking. I also measure the entire strand. To measure your hair simply place a ruler to your scalp and measure the hair from scalp to the point on which it stops on the ruler. Yes I do measure it myself. Since I only color when I retouch I can measure grey hair from retouch to retouch at the roots.

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2. I have recently completed reading your book "Ultra Black Hair Growth" and which was very informative! Thank you for doing such a great job! I was planning to buy the products, but was recently diagnosed with seborreheic dermatitis of the scalp. My dermatologist has advised me that I cannot use oils/products with oils of any kind because they will aggravate my condition. I have type 4B hair that I am currently wearing short because of my problem. Is there anything that I can do to alleviate the dryness of my hair, that is, short of using conditioners (that is all I use at present)?

Please take this with a grain of salt. I have a problem with the hair care industry and dermatologist because they dont really know our hair but they try to prescribe things for us based on tradition. Tradition has failed us because of the ignorance about our hair.

If your Dermatologist said "no oil on the scalp" I would agree. But what she said was "no oil on the hair." That is very wrong for our dry hair. Avoid the grease on the scalp but my conditioner has oil built in the product that has been known to help others with conditions similar to yours. The oils are put on the hair via the conditioner (which is where it needs to be instead of on the scalp) some oils will get on the scalp but very little. We focus to much on the scalp where our dry hair is really the problem. You will need the oil on your hair via a deep conditioner like mine but avoid "greasing the scalp" as it is not necessary and in turn causes more problems.

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3. Congratulations on your book , it is wonderful, truely common sense is the only way to grow hair. May you continue to prosper, and thank you for bringing the truth out. I have been on your program for about 2 weeks now, so hopefully after 1 year I will be able to send you before and after photos. After reading your book I have found out now why it is so important to wash your hair. There is one thing that has always puzzled me. Before reading your book, I would put off washing my hair for a long time, because when I tied my hair and untied it, it seemed to have grown considerable. Then when I do wash it, my hair seems to shrink. The question I am asking you is why is it that hair seems to shrink when you wash your hair....???

When hair is wet it is stretched to its tensile length, which is the longest length. Because we have a tight curl pattern, when the hair drys, it returns to the natural curl of the hair unless it has been chemically altered.

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4. I purchased your book, and I would just like to say it has made alot of sense to me. I live in Australia and had to order your book through a local Bookshop in my area. It took 8 weeks before it was delivered, but I think it was worth it. The purpose of my e-mail is to ask you whether you distribute your products to Australia and whether you will be able to give me a listing of the hair salons that sell your product. I would really appreciate your response to my query.

I am working on getting my products in Sally's Beauty Supply. Do you have a Sally's there?
Sally's is a big distributor and would be ideal if they were in your part of the world.
***Feb 2005 update, Sally's is not interested in working with us but hairdressers are beginnin to embrace the method and many are carrying the products.

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5. I am very interested on learning more about the "science of hair". You mentioned you dedicated yourself to finding out about "our" hair. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you may have on how I would go about learning this information. On the Ouidad hair site, she only mentions taking "some chemistry classes". I know there are many areas of chemistry. Which would be most beneficial to learning about the structure and composition of hair?

I never took any chemistry class and nor do I intend to. Get the Hair structure and chemistry simplified book by Milady and also the Black Hair Care book by Milady. They both give a real good understanding about our hair and the chemical make up of it. No chemistry class required.

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6. I used to live in Denver which is a dry place..now I am in Kentucky..to return to Denver. Should I adjust the way I use your products?

It is not necessary to adjust the products for geographic location.

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7. What types of foods do you recommend that would help to nourish hair?

None - I eat all foods and none in particular are for the good of my hair, or purposely eaten for my hair.

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8. I'm wondering if over the years I just got so used to feeling oils in my hair that my hair "feels dry" when the oils are absent from my hair. One thing I know is that dry hair BREAKS, and my hair is definitely NOT doing that.

Wonderful, you are doing the right things but you just need a little hair polish to enhance it.

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9. I have a question about the hair natural life cycle because you said every one is different. What if someone hair life cycle, only allow them to have short hair length? I do not believe that all African Americans can grow shoulder length hair because their hair life cycle is not meant for them to have long hair. I have read your book several times. Your book is awesome and I am following your hair regimen guidelines. By following your book information my is stronger than ever. When I comb my hair no hair is in the comb. "Oh to make a long story short," it has now been 12 weeks since I had a retouch for my relaxer. Time before I never could wait this long for a retouch, because my hair would shed so bad that I had to get a relaxer in 6-8 weeks. Can you believe it, my hair is still not shedding. I only been using your hair regimen for 2 months now. Thanks to your products and the every 3 days hair washing, deep conditioning and moisturizing daily system, my hair is in good condition. I will keep you updated on the progressing of my hair. Your hair system is grrrrreeeaaat!!!!!!!

The natural hair life cycle - I will expand on this briefly and a better explanation can be found in "Milady's Hair Structure and Chemistry Simplified" by Douglas D. Schoon. You can ask Barnes and Noble to order for you. This information is taken from this book and I give credit to the publication:

I paraphase here -"Every complete cycle has 3 phases, which are repeated again and again throughout life. The 3 cycles are called the Anagen phase , the catagen phase, and the telogen phase."

Anagen Phase - The growth part of the phase. The stem cells actively manufacture new keratinized cells in the hair follicle. This part of the cycle genarally lasts 4 years and in extreme cases can last as long as 10 years.

Catagen phase - the follicle prepares for the new growth.

Telogen phase - the resting stage that can last for 100 days. The hair is pushed out and prepares for the new growth.

This stuff is too "technical" for the average individual, thus the reason I left it out of my book. If you want a detailed explanation of this, please get a copy of Hair Structure and Chemistry Simplified.

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10. I have had thin, almost bald sides(temples) as long as I can remember. My hair is thin and has never grown past my earlobe. I will be ordering the products, but I wondered if following this system could cause the hair to grow in my temple area as well?

Whether your balding sides come back depends on how long the hair has been gone, what caused the balding and if the hair cells underneath the scalp are retarded or plain and simple dead. If they have been gone for a long time then it probably will not come back because the hair cells are dead. If this is a new problem, perhaps they are just retarded from braids too tight etc. If this is the case, it is possible to restimulate the hair cells and start them producing hair again.

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11. I'm a college student, so I don't have money to buy your products. I'm on a strict budget. What is the best shampoo to use. Is hot oil treatment good for the hair. How do I get rid of split ends. I will be getting married in two years and I'm trying to grow my hair for my wedding. The front of my hair is long, but the back is very short.

Read my book for the answers you are seeking. The questions you ask are detailed in the book

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12. I have went to a dermatologist because my hair constantly fell out. It was long strands. She said my hair shaft have been damaged by relaxers. She never stated if this situation can be repaired. She prescribed an oil for my hair. I have to sleep in it on Friday. I also want to know why you differ with the dermatologist? I will take what you say in complete confidence

Your hair is breaking at the weakest point of the hair between the new growth and the chemical. Laying oil on the hair will not help you. You need protein first then oils that are used under a dryer so the hair shaft can swell open and the oils go inside.

No need to keep what I say in confidence. I am very vocal about exposing the truth especially when it is a professional professing something that I know is wrong.

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13. Do you know if the hair shaft can be repaired?

Yes your hair can be repaired if the chemical bonds have not been broken in the hair. Protein will repair the hair that is not severely damaged.

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14. My thoughts were after the visit that my hair shaft can be repaired because I know that the hair on my head is dead but the new hair that is coming in is strong because it is not processed. My problem is once I process it, will this happen again?

If the hair is not regularly strengthened with protein, yes it will happen again.

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15. I just shaved my shoulder length relaxed hair off. I stumbled onto your site looking for advice on how to grow and maintain healthy NATURAL hair but was somewhat disappointed. I think that you may have stumbled upon a real gem for women who want to continue relaxing their hair but you haven't spent any time, it seems, researching or uplifting the true nature of African hair. Perhaps your FAQ section needs to begin by acknowledging that our hair is always so brittle and miserable because we refuse to let it grow in it's natural state.

Hair is hair in that the chemical composition is the same for all hair. It is the characteristics (natural, curly, color) that are different. Sistahs just want to grow their hair, it does not matter what style, they just want hair! I developed my hair care system on the worst case scenerio which is chemically processed hair. Hair that is not chemically processed is still dry for african americans but not as dry. You can still use this method but eliminate any steps that talk about chemicals. My system is for all black women wanting to grow their own hair. It is a personal preference if they choose to wear it natural.

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16. As you are touring the country and spreading the hair word, please stop in
Charlotte, NC. It would be great to see your hair in person and ask questions.

I am traveling around to spread the message however, I dont currently have NC on my calendar but I am always looking for large venues to attend.

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17. What causes the ends of hair to become thin and see-through?

This is caused by breakage or lacking protein. When they get to the point of not looking very good, trim them. You may want to try a protein treatment first to see if it is possible to thicken the hair. But because you said "see through" you may need to resort to the trim if they dont look good after the protein.

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18. I am a seventeen year old girl wishing to grow my hair out. Will brushing my hair make it grow.

No brushing your hair will destroy it! This is covered in the book.

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19. Does scalp massage help?

I don't do them and my hair grows using the stimulant in my conditioner!

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20. I do have a question about an ingredient in hair products. Paula Begoun's book "Don't Go Shopping for Hair Care Products Without Me" states that ammonium laureate sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate dries your hair. I didn't read anything about this in your book but I did read about the sodium lauryl sulfate maybe in your book or online (I'm not sure). Anyway, the question is what do you think of this ingredient. I have it in one of my shampoos that I'm currently using on my hair. I wanted to know if I need to change shampoos or not. Right now, I use White Rain Apple Essence shampoo, the Dew, UBH conditioner and Motions moisturizer?

I tried to stay away from using technical names in my book because it detracts from the message when you have to stop and pick up a dictionary to understand what is being said. If the shampoo is specified for dry damaged hair, color treated hair or chemically treated hair and when you use the product it does not seem to dry your hair out, then use it. Personally I think White Rain is the equivalent of Suave and I would not use either one of them myself. However if you like it, use it.

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21. I'm from Australia and I want to order your book Ultra Black Hair Growth II. I want to know how much it will cost me to order the book as well as air mail postage through my credit card as prices are in US dollars. Also I was wondering if just ordering the book alone minus dew and the conditioner will still be beneficial in growing my hair longer? Do I need these products?

To obtain correct shipping charges to Australia, please go back online and select pay by credit card via fax. That way your cc will not be charged. Select the items you would like to purchase by adding them to the shopping cart. That way you will be able to see what the shipping charges are. If you still have difficulty obtaining please email me again. You might also try ordering from Amazon.com. I dont know what their shipping rates are but that too is an option. The book is the MOST vital part of the system. Once you understand the system, you should be able to pick your products based on the knowledge in the book. There is no conditioner on the market like mine but you can probably find something that might work. The dew was developed because woman dont want the heavy cremes and I did not find a good spray on the market. Before I developed Dew, I used creme moisturizers. So the answer to do you need these products, No you can use what you find on the market as long as it is specified as I have said in the book.

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22. I have used your products for the first time this evening, and I have a couple of questions. I followed your suggested regimen and I am unsure of two things: 1) After applying the Dew, should I comb my hair wet or let it air-dry and then comb it. I ask because after I rinsed from deep-conditioning, my hair texture was not smooth. Is that normal, or does it improve with use? I applied the Dew, let it dry for about 30 minutes then combed it out, periodically and carefully and it then became more manageable it had become. 2) I'm so used to putting a glosser on my hair to detangle when I comb it wet; but this time I did not, I followed your instructions and will re-moisturize tomorrow morning. What opinion do you have regarding using a glosser for such a purpose? I'm still excited about your products and anticipate positive results with time.

Olanre, Do not comb the hair wet especially if you have a relaxer. After washing, spray the Dew on after a deep conditioner or even if you dont deep condition. Let your hair dry via air drying or dome dryer, (I usually smooth with my hand while drying under the dryer)

It is okay to apply a glosser, also known as hair polish. Hair polish smoothes the cuticle and makes for less tangled hair. The Ultra Black hair conditioner contains protein and will make the hair stronger. However, protein makes the hair hard and we need to soften it with moisturizer. Just avoid combing the hair wet as much as possible. When hair is wet, it is stretched to its tensile strength (longest length) and if in bad condition will break when over stressed by pulling when it is wet.

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23. Hi, it's me Melissa once again. I am e-mailing you because I took your advice, and I am using the conditioner you recommended (Ultra Black Hair) and also the moisturizer (Aphogee) for brittleness and the leave in moisturizer. But still my hair is very dry. Whenever I comb my hair the comb snags middle ways and I have to pull pretty hard to go all the way through. Do you think I should get a short natural hair cut or cut my hair where the comb snags? Or is there also other hair products I should be using. Will you please help me.

I think there is a misunderstanding here. I have never advised you to use the moisturizer (Aphogee)! Aphogee is a protein! Protein makes the hair hard for a reason but you can't keep using that as a moisturizer! Have you tried the Dew? Or perhaps you perfer a creme
- try Motions Moisturizer. Whether or not you cut your hair is your choice.

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24. I have been wondering something since I first started using your program.(keep in mind I am very impatient when it comes to my personal hair growth) I understand what you mean about the hair's natural life cycle, but is it possible that my hair's natural life cycle will only give me length just above my shoulders?

It is NOT possible to determine "ones" natural life cycle untils you have been through one. A natural life cycle can be from 3 to 6 years. The only way to know what yours is - is to not trim your hair for 3 or more years and stop the breakage to allow the hair to go to its full potential.

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25. I received your products yesterday and used them for the first time this morning. I like them both. Prior to using them, my scalp felt stressed in some kind of way and my scalp was very tight and dry to the point of white patches. After a single use, my head feels light. It's almost as if my scalp can breath. No more tightness. Do I sound like a commercial? I have a question for you. I purchased the book for my mother. She, being from the "old school" is very skeptical and worries about me and my hair situation. She wants me to ask you the following questions: 1)For a person in their late 60's, with baby fine hair, can this system help her problem? Her hair is so fine, you can see through it and she has resorted to wigs like so many other sisters with this particular type of problem. Her problem is not necessarily length, like in my case, but thickness. 2) She also wants me to ask you about Sulfur8. She has used this product for decades. I know. I told her to read the book, but she will be a hard one to convince regarding this product. She is convinced that this is THE only thing that helps her hair grow. She thinks it is something in the product that makes the scalp tingle, much like your stimulant. How can I convince her to change?

You do not sound like a commercial, just someone who is noticing a difference. I certainly understand your Mother's skepticism because we have been lied to so much about our hair. Let me try to answer her questions.

1)For a person in their late 60's, with baby fine hair, can this system help her problem? It depends on why her hair is "baby fine". It could be the result of aging, hormones, or things she has herself done to her hair. Is it chemically processed? There are so many reasons she could have this problem. My mother has a head full of hair and she is in here 70's, and still gets a relaxer and has for years. On the other hand, I had an aunt that went bald in the top of her head like a man and because the hair cells were retarded and eventually died, her hair never returned. I would suggest it could be some imbalance if this condition has not always been true for her hair.

Sulfur 8 has been used for decades and was one of the products that was derived from the Madame CJ Walker era. Sulfur has the ability to stimulate but sulfur stinks. I do not use anything that stinks on my hair. Sulfur was used for hair problems like ring worm and itchy scalp. If your mother does not mind stinky hair, let her use it. It will not help with building the hair, which is what I would think she needs because of the thinning you mentioned. Try using the conditioner on her hair by deep conditioning and see how she feels afterwards. Unfortunately people from the old school are harder to convenience. If she changes it will take some effort on your part. If her problems are not caused by a hormone imbalance but things that she is doing to her hair, this will help her if the hair cells underneath the scalp are not dead.

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26. I read in your book that you recomend that we wash our hair once a week. I talked to a girl who washes hers once every 2 weeks (the way I used to). Do you think that washing afro-american hair every other week will damage it? I am just afraid to continue washing my hair once a week. I do not want to lose too much hair.

Danielle, washing your hair EVERY day if you choose to will not damage it. It is what you wash your hair with! If washing every day was a problem all white people would be baldheaded! The not washing is a myth we have lived with for decades!

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27. How would I find a list of vendors who sell your products?

Go to my FAQ page and click on "who carries your products" to find a list of my vendors.

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28. What does it mean when the ends are split up the hairshaft? What causes this to happen? How can I avoid this? I don't use hot curling irons, only wet sets. I condition each week?

Hair splitting all the way up the hair shaft is a "myth" perpetuated by the hair care industry. It is not logical nor possible for every hair to do such a thing (the top layer of the hair are like shingles on a roof) as I have never experienced it nor do I believe it to be true. Hair can split ANY WHERE along the hair shaft caused by things you do to is like brushing. And if every hair on your head is prone to splitting up the hair shaft, you might as well shave it all off and start over because trimming the hair will not help! 

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29. My hair has a very loose curl pattern and is in good condition. I am wondering if the hair care tips in your book for growing Black hair will be useful for someone whose hair is not tightly curled and is healthy? I would also like to know if you could tell me how I can determine my natural growth cycle?

The hair care information in my book is an eye opening experience that teaches you why we have short hair and how to correct it - it teaches you how to add length or simply how to maintain our hair. This type of information has never been given to us before. My book is the most comprehensive hair care manual available for our hair. It is worth the $15 investment just to understand our hair. So yes this can help you if you don't know much about your hair. In order to determine your natural life cycle you would have to let your hair grow for 3+ years without cutting it. The average growth rate is 6" per year, some may have hair that grows 3" while another may have hair that grows 10" but the average growth rate is 6". If you allowed your hair to grow for 3 years and your growth rate is 6" you should have approx 18" of hair. After 5 years if your hair is still 18" then you can say your natural life cycle is 3 years. Get what I am getting at? 

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30. Do you or do you not comb your hair after you wash the conditioner out and moisturize while your hair is still wet?

I avoid combing my hair when wet at all. There are sometimes when it is necessary but not very often.

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31. I started menopause at 36, and have been on HRT for over 15 years and have really never experience this type of hair breakage before. Even though you stated that your book was not designed for certain aging issues, I still agree with the common sense techniques, therefore I will try your technique.

Thank you for the compliment about my book. Oh how I wish I had all the answers to every hair growth problem but I do not. Common sense tells me that when I am medically advised to take medications that can affect hair from the inside, I must expect a possible adverse effect. Thus the reason I don't plan on taking (Hormone Replacement Therapy for something that is a natural to existence.) HRT. I realize that some of us will take HRT and as I continue to study and research our hair growth concerns, I am sure that I will investigate the effects of HRT in the future. However at this time, I feel I can be of no help to you because my method addresses external hair growth issues, not internal. The good news is, if dryness and breakage are the cause of some of your hair problems, this will help those issues but not the internal ones

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32. I have read your book and your 2 products are really great! i somehow enjoyed the book and I think although you put most the info in the book on the website it still makes a good reference book on my bookshelf.

The book actually contains a system. The website merely references the book.

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